Monday, January 11, 2010

baby professor vest







Another vest - and this time, it's all about getting our little boys ready for the academic life. I've written a 9 to 12 month size (Milo is only 6 months but a whopping 19lbs and 29 inches tall, and he has room to grow in this vest). Tweed and solid wools would work well, not to mention heathered colours. Basically if it matches a corduroy jacket with elbow patches, let's just say it will be perfect. And if anyone spots a mistake or has any suggestions please let me know!


You will need:
Worsted weight wool (I used Jo Sharp Silkroad Aran Tweed)
5mm needles (16” circs will do)
stitch markers
stitch holders / scrap yarn
2 buttons

Gauge 16 stitches and 28 rows = 4 “ square in stockinette
Size is roughly 9-12 months, finished dimensions are 10.5” across and 12” long (or longer – the body length is up to you!)

Notes:
When I refer to left and right sides, I mean the left and right of the person wearing the garment (is it just me or can that be confusing sometimes?) I’ve also marked the right and wrong side of the garment to help keep you on track. And there are a lot of instructions devoted to simply making nice edges (basically SL1 at the end of every row). What can I say - I’m a big fan of neat selvedges.

CO 85.
Join in the round and pm to mark beginning of row. Starting with a K, seed stitch for 6 rows.
R7: K17, pm, starting with a K stitch, seed stitch for next 23 sts, pm, K to end of row. Continue knitting in the round, with seed stitch pattern between the two markers until you reach the underarm (for my 19lb baby boy, I stopped at 7”). When you’ve reached your desired body length, do the next 3 rows like this:
R1: (P1, K1) 7 times, K3, seed stitch between markers, K3, (K1, P1) 7 times, K to end of row.
R2: (K1, P1) 7 times, K3, seed stitch between markers, K3, (P1, K1) 7 times, K to end of row.
R3: (P1, K1) 7 times, K3, seed stitch between markers, K3, (K1, P1) 7 times, K to end of row.

FRONT
Next up, you’re ready to divide the body and start working on the front.
R4: K1, P1, K1, BO 8, K1, P1, K3, seed stitch between markers, K3, P1, K1, SL1, turn work.
R5: (wrong side) P1, K1, P1, P3, seed stitch between markers, P3, P1, K1, SL1, turn.
R6: (right side) P1, K1, P1, K3, seed stitch between markers, K3, P1, K1, SL1, turn.
Repeat R5 and R6 until R13 (wrong side).
R14: (right side) P1, K1, P1, K3, slip marker, K1, P1, K1, BO next 17 sts, P1, K1, slip marker, K3, P1, K1, SL1 (9 stitches left on each side to create shoulders).

FRONT: RIGHT SOULDER (buttonhole side)
R1: (wrong side) P1, K1, P4, K1, P1, keep yarn in front and SL1.
R2: (right side) K1, P1, K4, P1, K1, SL1.
Repeat these two rows until R13 (wrong side).
R14: K8, bring yarn forward, SL1.
R15: K1, K2tog, yo, K3, yo, K2tog, bring yarn forward, SL1.
R16: K8, bring yarn forward, SL1.
R17: BO all sts.

FRONT: LEFT SHOULDER
R1: (wrong side) Join yarn, K1, P1, K1, P4, K1, SL1.
R2: (right side) P1, K1, P1, K4, P1, keep yarn in front and SL1.
Repeat these two rows until R14 (right side).
Break yarn and place these 9 stitches on holder.

BACK
Place the remaining body stitches on your needle (which should be 42 stitches, in case you want to confirm).
R1: Join yarn on the right side of your knitting which should be the left underarm. BO the first 8 sts (34 sts left on needles). P1, K29, P1, K1, SL1.
R2: P1, K1, P29, K1, P1, keep yarn forward and SL1.
R3: K1, P1, K29, P1, K1, keep yarn in back and SL1.
Repeat R2 and R3 two more times.
R8: P1, K1, P4, (K1, P1) 11 times, P3, K1, P1, keep yarn forward and SL1.
R9: K1, P1, K4, (P1, K1) 11 times, K3, P1, K1, keep yarn in back and SL1.
R10: same as R8.
R11: K1, P1, K4, P1, K1, P1, BO next 16 sts, P1, K4, P1, K1, keep yarn in back and SL1 (9 stitches left on each side to create shoulders).

BACK: LEFT SHOULDER
R1: (wrong side) P1, K1, P4, K1, P1, keep yarn in front and SL1.
R2: (right side) K1, P1, K4, P1, K1, keep yarn in back and SL1.
Repeat these two rows until R14 (right side).
At this point I find a 3 needle bind-off the easiest way to seam together the front and back left shoulder. Here’s a video tutorial of the technique: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU&feature=related
You will need a spare needle (a DPN for example) to seam this way. Alternately, you could BO these 9 stitches and seam the shoulder with your method of choice.

BACK: RIGHT SHOULDER
R1: (wrong side) Join yarn, P1, K1, P4, K1, P1, keep yarn in front and SL1.
R2: (right side) K1, P1, K4, P1, K1, keep yarn in back and SL1.
Repeat these two rows (minus the joining yarn part!) until R14 (right side).
R15: BO all stitches.

Sew your two buttons on the back right shoulder and weave in all ends. Done!

(Pattern is for personal use only. Please do not use for commercial purposes.)

12 comments:

Anett Kiefer said...[Reply to comment]

What a cute little boy!!! He looks so lovely in this vest.
Greetings from Germany
Anett

Rima said...[Reply to comment]

I am so making one of this! so very cute.

Connie said...[Reply to comment]
This comment has been removed by the author.
Connie said...[Reply to comment]

I know what you mean about right and left! Cute vest.

catsmum said...[Reply to comment]

cute - I'm considering trying it in a finer gauge / smaller needles - say DK and 4mm - which in theory should yield a newborn-3 months size.

Anonymous said...[Reply to comment]

Call me a dummy but I'm at the point of working on the back (42 stitches left) and am wondering if I should still be knitting in the round? I'm using 14" circulars and I'm stretching the heck out of the stitches to stay in the round and am having trouble seeing how this will turn out.

sam lamb said...[Reply to comment]

@Anonymous I hope this reply function works!

The 42 stitches for the back are meant to be knit flat - which will make it much easier (and it helps see how the vest is coming together). After the body is knit, you divide the stitches so that you can knit the front flat and then the back flat.

I hope that helps!

Anonymous said...[Reply to comment]

Okay, thanks!! I figured that out once I started in the round and saw that it couldn't possibly be right. The other thing I noticed when I was finished is that the arm holes aren't symmetrical. Is it supposed to be that way? Maybe it doesn't matter.

Anonymous said...[Reply to comment]

It's me again, confused knitter. I figured out the problem with the underarms not being symmetrical. I think there is an error in the pattern. When it comes to starting on the back, the pattern reads: join yarn on the right side...should be the left underarm. Do you mean right vs. left or right vs wrong side of the garment? If one joins at the left underarm and casts off 8 sts, that only makes the left underarm wider and the right one terribly narrow, hence the lack of symmetry. But if you join at the right side it is the right underarm, is it not? Anyway, I crossed out left and wrote right on my copy and it worked! I finished the vest, symmetrical underarms and all. Thanks for this free pattern! It works up quick and will make an adorable baby gift. I think half the reason I fell in love with it when I saw it is because of your son! He is very sweet! Thanks again!

Jessie said...[Reply to comment]

Love this pattern.

Unfortunately I followed the directions exactly and my sweater is lopsided. Next time I knit it I will BO on the right side instead of on the left side 2x's. I think it will still look great.

Thank you so much!

Deanna McFadden said...[Reply to comment]

Sam -- RRBB was just photographed on the weekend with Santa wearing this vest (thank you for the second editions re: the clothes). The photographer said, "OMG, what a CUTE VEST!" before she started snapping.

xo

Anonymous said...[Reply to comment]

Hello Sam - what a great vest! I am a New Zealand nana knitter who is having a knitting revival presently due to new family babies. Have looked at your professor pattern to try and work out how to do this on two needles instead of in the round but can't seem to sort this out. Is there any chance that either you or somebody else has this pattern knitted flat please? Would so much appreciate this. Anthea